Sarnath / MiGaDarWun_ the first sermon

We got to Varanasi / BarYarNaThi – Sarnath / MigaDarWun, the last place of our pilgrimage circuit, on the night of 23-Dec. We had traveled from Bodha Gaya on the pilgrimage in a left turning circle, as opposed to others who mostly go on a right turning circle and reached the Varanasi / BarYarNaThi – Sarnath / MigaDarWun first. This is to avoid the crowd all along the 2 weeks pilgrimage with overcrowding in accommodation and places of worship.

After a whole day long 344 mile bus ride from Sankassa / ThinKatTha NaGo we passed through Varanasi / BarYarNaThi to reach the Burmese monastery in Sarnath. However, Varanasi / BarYarNaThi and Sarnath seem to be continuous although it is said to be 6 miles (= 9.6 km) / 13 km (2 versions) away.

We had dinner soon after our arrival and I was surprised to find a group of Nepalese pilgrims arriving later, and stayed at the Burmese Vihara. More surprisingly, they cooked their dinner only afte they arrived and had it on the benches and steps of the monastery.

The next morning, we left early for MiGaDarWun, the deer park and passed the Choukhandi Stupa, built on the place where Buddha met the 5 Pañcavaggiya monks, His former companions, who He went to preach. We did not get off and were just shown the stupa. The original donor of the stupa was king Asoka. There is 8 sided building at the top of the remains of the stupa. The tower was built by Akbar the Great in 1588. There was a stone inscription in Persian that it was built in commemoration of his father HunMaYun who reached the place while evading the enemies after losing a battle.

Choukhandi Stupa, Sarnath

The Chaukhandi Stupa commemorates the spot where the Buddha met his first disciples, dating back to the fifth century or earlier and later enhanced by the addition of an octagonal tower of Islamic origin. In recent years it is undergoing restoration.

We then reached Mrigadava, Migadāya / MiGaDawWun / Isipatana where Buddha gave the first sermon.

Isipatana is mentioned by the Buddha as one of the four places of pilgrimage / ThanWaiNiYa. 4 HtarNa သံေဝဇနိယ ၄ ဌာန which his devout followers should visit, if they wanted to visit a place for that reason.[1]

The other 3 places are Lumbini, the place of birth, Bodha Gaya, the place Enlightenment occurred and KuThiNarYone / Kushinagar, where Buddha left for Nirvana.

Sarnath or Sārnātha (also Mrigadava, Migadāya, Rishipattana, Isipatana) is the deer park where Gautama Buddha first taught the Dharma, and where the Buddhist Sangha came into existence through the enlightenment of Kondanna. Sarnath is located 13 kilometres north-east of Varanasi, in Uttar Pradesh, India. Singhpur, a village one km away from the site, was the birth place of Shreyansanath, the eleventh Jain Tirthankar of the present age (Avasarpini), and a temple dedicated to him, is an important Jain pilgrimage.

We went to the Dharma Rajika stupa ruins first. This is the place where Buddha gave the first sermon to the 5 Pañcavaggiya monks / Pyinsa Weggi.

Nearby is the Monolithic railing, originally placed at the top of Dharma Rajika stupa. Discovered in the excavation 1904-5, made of Chunar sandstone, bears the typical Mauryan polish and bears two inscriptions of about the 3rd centuary B.C. which refer to the teachers of Sarvastivadin sect.

Mulgandha Kuti, the remnant of a huge temple which probably represents the spot where Lord Buddha used to sit in meditation. According to Hiuen-Tsang, its height was 61 meters, its thick walls were obsviously meant for supporting a lofty super structure. The temple was raised on a square platform, each side measuring 29 meters. The entrance was towards the east with a rectangular mandapa. In the front there was a long open courtyard. On the basis of its architectural style, brick building and other decorative patterns, the temple appears to be constructed during the Gupta period

There is also a Monolithic railing, originally placed at the top of Dharma Rajika stupa.Discovered in the excavation 1904-5, made of Chunar sandstone, bears the typical Mauryan polish and bears two inscriptions of about the 3rd centuary B.C. which refer to the teachers of Sarvastivadin sect.

Mulgandha Kuti, the spot where Buddha used to sit in meditation

The ruins of the Mulagandhakuti vihara mark the place where the Buddha spent his first rainy season.

We offered gold leaves and lighted candles. While the others were listening to sermon and chanting the Pathan, I went around the place taking photos. It was a photographer’s and a traveler’s delight as you will see from the many archeological stone designs of the stupa and monastery remains.

at Dharma Rajika stupa

The Dharmarajika Stupa is one of the few pre-Ashokan stupas remaining, although only the foundations remain. The rest of the Dharmarajika Stupa was removed to Varanasi to be used as building materials in the 18h century. At that time, also relics were found in the Dharmarajika Stupa. These relics were subsequently thrown in the Ganges river.

at Dharma Rajika stupa

There is also the fragments of the broken Ashokan pillar with inscriptions. Erected by the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka (272-232 B.C.), made of Chunar sandstone. It bears the typical Mauryan polish. It is slightly tapering with the diameter of 0.71 mtr at the base and 0.56 mtr at the top. It was once surmounted by the four adorsed lion_which is an excellent example of the Mauryan art. (now the national emblem of the Govt. of India) The pillar bears three inscriptions. The earliest one is an edict of Ashoka in the Mauryan Brahmi script.

Asoka pillar remains

The Ashoka Pillar erected here, originally surmounted by the “Lion Capital of Asoka” (presently on display at the Sarnath Museum), was broken during Turk invasions but the base still stands at the original location

Dhamek Stupa, Sarnath

The Dhamek Stupa; it is an impressive 128 feet high and 93 feet in diameter.

Origin of names

Mrigadava means “deer-park”.

Isipatana is the name used in the Pali Canon, and means the place where holy men (Pali: isi, Sanskrit: rishi) fell to earth.

The legend says that when the Buddha-to-be was born, some devas came down to announce it to 500 rishis. The rishis all rose into the air and disappeared and their relics fell to the ground. Another explanation for the name is that Isipatana was so called because sages, on their way through the air (from the Himalayas), alight here or start from here on their aerial flight (isayo ettha nipatanti uppatanti cāti-Isipatanam). Pacceka Buddhas, having spent seven days in contemplation in the Gandhamādana, bathe in the Anotatta Lake and come to the habitations of men through the air, in search of alms. They descend to earth at Isipatana.[2] Sometimes the Pacceka Buddhas come to Isipatana from Nandamūlaka-pabbhāra.[3]

Xuanzang quotes the Nigrodhamiga Jātaka (J.i.145ff) to account for the origin of the Migadāya. According to him the Deer Park was the forest gifted by the king of Benares of the Jātaka, where the deer might wander unmolested. The Migadāya was so-called because deer were allowed to roam about there unmolested.

Sarnath, from Saranganath, means “Lord of the Deer” and relates to another old Buddhist story in which the Bodhisattva is a deer and offers his life to a king instead of the doe the latter is planning to kill. The king is so moved that he creates the park as a sanctuary for deer. The park is still there today.

History

Gautama Buddha at Isipatana

The Buddha went from Bodhgaya to Sarnath about 7 weeks after his enlightenment.

Before Gautama (the Buddha-to-be) attained enlightenment, he gave up his austere penances and his friends, the Pañcavaggiya monks, left him and went to Isipatana.[4]

After attaining Enlightenment the Buddha, leaving Uruvela, travelled to the Isipatana to join and teach them. He went to them because, using his spiritual powers, he had seen that his five former companions would be able to understand Dharma quickly. While travelling to Sarnath, Gautama Buddha had to cross the Ganges. Having no money with which to pay the ferryman, he crossed the Ganges through the air. When King Bimbisāra heard of this, he abolished the toll for ascetics.

When Gautama Buddha found his five former companions, he taught them, they understood and as a result they also became enlightened. At that time the Sangha, the community of the enlightened ones, was founded.

The sermon Buddha gave to the five monks was his first sermon, called the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta. It was given on the full-moon day of Asalha.[5]

Buddha subsequently also spent his first rainy season at Sarnath[6] at the Mulagandhakuti. The Sangha had grown to 60 in number (after Yasa and his fiends had become monks), and Buddha sent them out in all directions to travel alone and teach the Dharma. All 60 monks were Arahants.

Several other incidents connected with the Buddha, besides the preaching of the first sermon, are mentioned as having taken place in Isipatana. Here it was that one day at dawn Yasa came to the Buddha and became an Arahant.[7] It was at Isipatana, too, that the rule was passed prohibiting the use of sandals made of talipot leaves.[8] On another occasion when the Buddha was staying at Isipatana, having gone there from Rājagaha, he instituted rules forbidding the use of certain kinds of flesh, including human flesh.[9] Twice, while the Buddha was at Isipatana, Māra visited him but had to go away discomfited.[10]

Besides the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta mentioned above, several other suttas were preached by the Buddha while staying at Isipatana, among them

  • the Anattalakkhana Sutta,
  • the Saccavibhanga Sutta,
  • the Pañca Sutta (S.iii.66f),
  • the Rathakāra or Pacetana Sutta (A.i.110f),
  • the two Pāsa Suttas (S.i.105f),
  • the Samaya Sutta (A.iii.320ff),
  • the Katuviya Sutta (A.i.279f.),
  • a discourse on the Metteyyapañha of the Parāyana (A.iii.399f), and
  • the Dhammadinna Sutta (S.v.406f), preached to the distinguished layman Dhammadinna, who came to see the Buddha.

Some of the most eminent members of the Sangha seem to have resided at Isipatana from time to time; among recorded conversations at Isipatana are several between Sariputta and Mahakotthita,[11] and one between Mahākotthita and Citta-Hatthisariputta.[12] Mention is made, too, of a discourse in which several monks staying at Isipatana tried to help Channa in his difficulties.[13]

According to the Udapāna Jātaka (J.ii.354ff ) there was a very ancient well near Isipatana which, in the Buddha’s time, was used by the monks living there.

Isipatana after the Buddha

According to the Mahavamsa, there was a large community of monks at Isipatana in the second century B.C. For, we are told that at the foundation ceremony of the Mahā Thūpa in Anurādhapura, twelve thousand monks were present from Isipatana led by the Elder Dhammasena.[14]

Xuanzang[15] found, at Isipatana, fifteen hundred monks studying the Hīnayāna. In the enclosure of the Sanghārāma was a vihāra about two hundred feet high, strongly built, its roof surmounted by a golden figure of the mango. In the centre of the vihāra was a life-size statue of the Buddha turning the wheel of the Law. To the south-west were the remains of a stone stupa built by King Asoka. The Divy. (389-94) mentions Asoka as intimating to Upagupta his desire to visit the places connected with the Buddha’s activities, and to erect thupas there. Thus he visited Lumbinī, Bodhimūla, Isipatana, Migadāya and Kusinagara; this is confirmed by Asoka’s lithic records, e.g. Rock Edict, viii.

In front of it was a stone pillar to mark the spot where the Buddha preached his first sermon. Near by was another stupa on the site where the Pañcavaggiyas spent their time in meditation before the Buddha’s arrival, and another where five hundred Pacceka Buddhas entered Nibbāna. Close to it was another building where the future Buddha Metteyya received assurance of his becoming a Buddha.

Buddhism flourished in Sarnath in part because of kings and wealthy merchants based in Varanasi. By the third century Sarnath had become an important center for the arts, which reached its zenith during the Gupta period (4th to 6th centuries CE). In the 7th century by the time Xuan Zang visited from China, he found 30 monasteries and 3000 monks living at Sarnath.

Sarnath became a major centre of the Sammatiya school of Buddhism, one of the early Buddhist schools. However, the presence of images of Heruka and Tara indicate that Vajrayana Buddhism was (at a later time) also practiced here. Also images of Brahminist gods as Shiva and Brahma were found at the site, and there is still a Jain temple (at Chandrapuri) located very close to the Dhamekh Stupa.

At the end of the 12th century Sarnath was sacked by Turkish Muslims, and the site was subsequently plundered for building materials.

Discovery of Isipatana

Isipatana is identified with the modern Sarnath, six miles from Benares. Alexander Cunningham[16] found the Migadāya represented by a fine wood, covering an area of about half a mile, extending from the great tomb of Dhamekha on the north to the Chaukundi mound on the south.

Legendary characteristics of Isipatana

According to the Buddhist commentarial scriptures, all the Buddhas preach their first sermon at the Migadāya in Isipatana. It is one of the four avijahitatthānāni (unchanging spots), the others being the bodhi-pallanka, the spot at the gate of Sankassa, where the Buddha first touched the earth on his return from Tāvatimsa, and the site of the bed in the Gandhakuti in Jetavana[17]

In past ages Isipatana sometimes retained its own name, as it did in the time of Phussa Buddha (Bu.xix.18), Dhammadassī Buddha (BuA.182) and Kassapa Buddha (BuA.218). Kassapa was born there (ibid., 217). But more often Isipatana was known by different names (for these names see under those of the different Buddhas). Thus in the time of Vipassī Buddha, it was known as Khema-uyyāna. It is the custom for all Buddhas to go through the air to Isipatana to preach their first sermon. Gotama Buddha, however, walked all the way, eighteen leagues, because he knew that by so doing he would meet Upaka, the Ajivaka, to whom he could be of service.[18]

Current Features of Isipatana

Most of the ancient buildings and structures at Sarnath were damaged or destroyed by the Turks. However, amongst the ruins can be distinguished:

  • The Dhamek Stupa; it is an impressive 128 feet high and 93 feet in diameter.
  • The Dharmarajika Stupa is one of the few pre-Ashokan stupas remaining, although only the foundations remain. The rest of the Dharmarajika Stupa was removed to Varanasi to be used as building materials in the 18h century. At that time, also relics were found in the Dharmarajika Stupa. These relics were subsequently thrown in the Ganges river.
  • The Chaukhandi Stupa commemorates the spot where the Buddha met his first disciples, dating back to the fifth century or earlier and later enhanced by the addition of an octagonal tower of Islamic origin. In recent years it is undergoing restoration.
  • The ruins of the Mulagandhakuti vihara mark the place where the Buddha spent his first rainy season.
  • The modern Mulagandhakuti Vihara is a monastery built in the 1930s by the Sri Lankan Mahabodhi Society, with beautiful wall paintings. Behind it is the Deer Park (where deer are still to be seen).
  • The Ashoka Pillar erected here, originally surmounted by the “Lion Capital of Asoka” (presently on display at the Sarnath Museum), was broken during Turk invasions but the base still stands at the original location.
  • The Sarnath Archeological Museum houses the famous Ashokan lion capital, which miraculously survived its 45-foot drop to the ground (from the top of the Ashokan Pillar), and became the National Emblem of India and national symbol on the Indian flag. The museum also houses a famous and refined Buddha-image of the Buddha in Dharmachakra-posture.
  • There is also a Bodhi tree planted by Anagarika Dharmapala which was grown from a cutting of the Bodhi Tree at Bodh Gaya.

For Buddhists, Sarnath (or Isipatana) is one of four pilgrimage sites designated by Gautama Buddha, the other three being Kushinagar, Bodh Gaya, and Lumbini.

Modern-Day Pilgrimage to Sarnath

Sarnath has been developed as a place of pilgrimage, both for Buddhists from India and abroad. A number of countries in which Buddhism is a major (or the dominant) religion, among them Thailand, Japan, Tibet, Sri Lanka and Myanmar, have established temples and monasteries in Sarnath in the style that is typical for the respective country. Thus, pilgrims and visitors have the opportunity to experience an overview of Buddhist architecture from various cultures.

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One Response to “Sarnath / MiGaDarWun_ the first sermon”

  1. Shall end range Jaiswal Says:

    Very informative a must go read

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